Letters from Rabbi Creditor in Israel (Fall-Winter 2004)

Letters from Rabbi Creditor in Israel (Fall-Winter 2004)

September 10, 2004  

We arrived safely on Monday afternoon. The flights went very smoothly.  We came to Jerusalem on a most beautiful sunny afternoon and made it to the apartment easily. We ate out late at night in a cool and breezy outdoor cafe. On Tuesday we began to get organized. It is quite achallenge to use by traditional Hebrew to read modern labels! We went to the Conservative Center at Agron and met Rabbi Jim Lebeau and set up the studies for Ruby and me. Later in the afternoon they picked us up from Emek Hefer and brought us to the klezmer concert of the whole region. There were over 4,000 people there to very late at night. I was asked to give greetings in Hebrew of course to the entire crowd on behalf ofRichmond. It was quite an honor and very well received. We stayed over the night at the head of the religious council and met with them and their people from P2K about future opportunities and then they brought us back to Jerusalem where we are still getting ourselves organized.  We hope that everyone back home is well and that the hurricanes are not bringing anymore damage to you. Because it took me so long to reattach the computer equipment in the apartment this is the first time that I am able to communicate with you.

Here in Israel, the air is different, the atmosphere is different, it is another galaxy! To be surrounded by Israel is just another level of existence. Despite any news you might hear, life here is normal, bustling and throbbing. We ate dinner last night in the pedestrial mall in downtown Jerusalem with people all around, stores open, business happening, music in the air.  Israel is alive and its heart beats strongly and vibrantly. That doesn't mean that there aren't problems in society. There certainly are. But Israel lives! You walk the streets! Cars are honking! And we are blessed to be here, especially in these days. If I don't write before, a sweet, happy, healthy, safe and beautiful new year to everyone.

---

September 13, 2004

Dear Friends,

Rabbi Creditor telephoned us today. He is really enmeshed in living in Jerusalem. Last Shabbat they worshiped at Ya Kar, a local synagogue, and spent Selicoth in Shir Hadash. Both Rabbi and Ruby are studying at the Fuchsberg Center, a Conservative Yeshiva in Jerusalem. He is studying Talmud, advanced Midrash and Bible studies. He is particularly enjoying his philosophy class. They plan on spending Rosh Hashanah in Efrat at a Yemenite Synagogue.

He says the country is fully functioning and bustling with commerce and a very different picture from what we see on the American news programs. The paper there is full of cultural events for all ages. As he says "Israel is not embattled. The country is living fully." Adding, "To breathe Jerusalem air and hear Hebrew spoken all around is joyful."

Rabbi asked us to pass on his greetings of "Ruby and I send our love and best wishes. Our prayers for a wonderful and happy new year. La Shana Tovah."

21 Tishrei 5765 / October 6, 2004

 

With the Sukoot yom tov, Shabbat, two days with Ariel to ourselves and taking her to the festivities in the city, and today Hoshana Rabbah, celebrated quite extensively, and tonight Shemini Atzeret and Simchat Torah rolled into one, it has been a very hectic and fun filled time. I would like to share a few reminicences with you. First, though, I send warmest greetings from Rabbi and Jo Millgram whose sukkah we visited Shabbat afternoon, along with  Menachem, Liz and Ariel, and also Danny Siegel. It was a most special time to share with Rabbi and Jo. They are well and as busy as ever. It was also an opportunity to discuss our beloved synagogue, and Rabbi Millgram reminisced about some events during his rabbinate. He particularly remembered with Rabbi Yochanan Muffs came from New York and the Seminary to go a way with the teenagers to North Carolina and the beginning of the USY chapter. He was very interested in our current events and well being and was very happy to hear of the accomplishments of Temple Beth-El. He is world recongized Biblical Scholar and has been asked to take on the work of writing the definitive commentary on the later part of the Book of Ezekiel, as the current scholar, Dr. Moshe Greenberg, is not able to continue in it. It is a project that will take a number of years and call upon the highest scholarship. It is a great honor for Rabbi Millgram to be asked to do this in the Anchor Bible series, one of the highest in this field. I extended greetings on behalf of the congregation to him and Jo and will see them again soon in the near future.

Sukkot here in Jerusalem is something vastly different. Wherever you look there are sukkot, some made out of just different sheets of cloth, others of wood, some with very decorative walls. Many of the restaurants have sukkot adjacent, so that you can either sit in them to order, or bring it out with you and sit in it. The city of Jerusalem built a huge sukkah, maybe the largest in the world, so they claim, that was lit with thousands, yes thousands of bulbs. We were informed of the opening ceremony and were on hand as the switch was thrown, (something like new year's eve!), and then there was much music. We returned on Sunday night for another evening of music and to meet special friends there. On the Tuesday night before Yom Tov Menachem and I went to the largest lulav and etrog market in the world, that's for sure, in Meah Shearim. It was bedlam. It was jammed. There was negotiating like crazy, as hundreds and thousands were buying these important ritual objects, not a good word but don't have any other, to be used and cherished. It was a thrill. We came back on Wednesday morning with the camcorder to record the sights and sounds of the street even as they were beginning to finish so to share it when we return. Sukkot here is truly observed in many ways.

There is no school during the holiday, there are special sales, people are always carrying their lulav and etrog in special containers, festivals and celebrations are being held each night in different places, and more are being advertised for Simchat Torah and the night after, called "Second Hakafot." Far from being an afterthought following Rosh HaShanah and Yom Kippur, it is a long awaited and much celebrated holiday, as it rightfully deserves. It is fun and meaningful.

Last night Ruby and I went to the Jerusalem Mall. It is a modern three stories tall with hundreds of shops, and all the eateries in the food courts are kosher, of course!. Besides browsing and shopping, we were there to see a very special movie. The movie we saw was called Ushpizin, the name of the ritual in the Sukkah when we invite the Patriarchs and in a newer ritual the Matriarchs to join us in the Sukkah. Yet the movie was a phenominally powerful movie. It has won several awards. I hope that it will come out with English subtitles and that we can bring it to Richmond. But before we did, we saw an entertainer doing Fox Kids for dozens, maybe even a hundred kids or more, sitting on the floor in the middle of a large area in the mall, as he and his troupe were performing for them, all in Hebrew of course! It was a great sight. I looked around at the sea of faces of the children and their parents and the casual passerby.

These were the amalgam of the Jewish people in all of our shades and hues, with different sytles of kipah and others without, all who make up the living, thriving, heartbeating soul of the Jewish people, proud, under pressure, upright, jostling, strong, and alive. It is more than a delight to be here. It is a mitzvah. More than the mitzvah to visit, it is a mitzvah to feel so engrained in the soul of our people, to feel the pulse of our nation, to hear the true mother tongue, no matter what I don't understand. You can't do this any other place. And not to do it is to miss the existence of Am Yisrael which is only a pale imitation, no matter how hard we try, in the Diaspora. You really have to come, look, listen and feel. That is the mitzvah.

___________________

30 Tishrei 5765 / October 15th, 2004

There are many things to write about but I will limit myself to one in this correspondence. We are well and continuing our studies and experiences here in Israel. Yesterday afternoon, at the Conservative Yeshiva where we are both studying (a subject for another time) they announced that a group from a Conservative synagogue in San Francisco was coming to visit us. I paid scant attention. In a pause of their visit who comes over to greet us, none other than Janice Seeman and her husband Myron who had moved to California in 1997 and were members of this congregation! We had a short but wonderful chat. Their Rabbi, Ted Alexander and I had teamed up many, many years ago but never met as he converted a woman for whose wedding I was officiating on Long Island. It was a great moment! They look wonderful, are well, and enjoying their move and their travels.

Today we are meeting Dan Soffin, son of Betty Ann and Michael who is here in Israel lecturing. We look forward to that in a few hours.  Last night we attended - as different from participating - in the rally in French/Paris Square in the heart of Jerusalem that was demonstrating against Prime Minister Sharon's plan for unilateral disengagement from Gaza and four settlements on the northern West Bank, also called Shomron, or Samaria. There are great political currents that are pulling across the country. And there are no clear absolutes. This is a form of government very different from that in the States. It is like a British system. Yet Sharon has clearly separated from his party, Likud, as its leader he had pledged never to give up an inch of land, and he was the instigator and ring leader to create the settlements when he was a minister in earlier governments, and now, without party backing and without any other party backing, is bent on pulling out of Gaza lock stock and barrel. He presented his platform this week and for some reason that I don't understand, he wanted them to vote on it, not that they were going to do anything in action, just say I support it or not. And he lost! His own party voted against him. The Labor voted against him because they were not consulted and because Sharon included economic issues to which they were directly opposed. Then this week, when Sharon submitted a bill to pay those moving out of Gaza, the Treasury committee was also going to vote it down, so he pulled the bill. 

Meanwhile, the Israel government is committed to the road map, if there is anyone to do this with, and who really knows what a Bush second term or a Kerry first term, or a Blair in England has in mind for pressures upon Israel. they can't press anyone else because there is no one to pressure! Even Egypt and Jordan have no leverage over the Palestinians. Syria is a mystery. And Iran, besides nuclear issues, seems to be a major player in the terrorism, besides Al Qaida. Lastly, the larger Israeli public seems to want to pull out of Gaza and the four settlements, at least, yet the Left of the political spectrum has been discredited, because ever since Oslo Accords, there are have been two intifadas - we are still in the second - and despite Ehud Barak's attempt to give back almost everything, and they are stopping suicide bombers every day, while Kassam missles have hit Shderot, in the northwestern Negev and there are threats of missiles that will be able to hit Ashkelon. So the counterbalance of the political scene has no champion and no voice, and the Sharon government is crumbling from within.

Nonetheless, the country goes on, Shabbat is coming, we had our first full week without a holiday, Menachem, Liz and Ariel went home on Monday after two full weeks here and we miss them very much, and the sun is shining and it will be about 85 degrees in Jerusalem! I really could sit here all day writing, but my fingers can't do that, and besides, tomorrow will come something else and reconfigure the whole thing! You can't blame political pundits nor reporters, it is Byzantine labyrinth. I read the paper every day to try to understand it better, but "it is a puzzlement!"  Our love and sincerest best regards to all. We are well, deeply engaged in life here, our Hebrew is improving - they speak too fast and use too many English words transposed and conjugated in Hebrew!

 

 

To the Temple Beth El Family:

A congregant asked me whether we should continue to encourage our children to visit Israel on programs such as "Birthrite." I answered him directly, but it is such an important question that I would like to share my thoughts with all of you.My answer is simple: by all means, they should come, especially on a controlled and organized program like birthrite. Let me assure you that life is normal and calm. Ruby and I walk the streets in the earliest morning and late at night unafraid. True, Jerusalem is a city like any city, so there are places that you don't go, and the sad and tragic event in Eilat proves that danger lurks at any door, yet we feel safe and secure. We see people of all ages, from the youngest to the oldest, out and about living normallives. Nearly two weeks ago thousands of Christians came here to join in a parade for solidarity with Israel. There are more tourists here than in recent years. There are more overseas, particularly American, students here at the universities and at the Conservative Yeshiva where Ruby and I are both studying.

Certainly I would recommend that they stick with the program and don't wander off where they don't know, but I would tell that to someone visiting Richmond, never mind, Jerusalem. It is particularly because of the security fence and the preemptive strikes to destroy the leadership of the terrorists that we feel this safe. Right now there is the issue of the missiles being shot from Gaza to Sderot, but I am sure that the Birthrite Program would not knowingly put them in harms way like taking them to that area.

It is so odd that there are still signs up from the last two years saying that we tourists are brave for coming to Israel. Where is ground zero? Where is the Pentagon? How many times have they raised the color alerts in America? How did we feel during the political conventions, fearing that something will happen? Here people don't walk around with fear, even as you open your purses and packages before entering a bakery, a restaurant, or a museum, or see soldiers on the streets, and security inspecting buses. It is all these actions that insure our safety and we cooperate willingly, wishing them good morning and good evening. It is one large family nation cooperating in securing each other's welfare. I reiterate, Ruby and I have felt safe from time we have come. There have been moments, few and far between, when we, as normal residents, pay closer attention. All that I have said is no insurance policy, yet where is there one? Because of our feelings here and knowing how wonderful and powerful has been the birthrite, I highlyendorse and recommend that the girls come to Israel on birthrite. If they come before the end of December and they come to Jerusalem, maybe we could see them! That would be a thrill.

 

 

November 1, 2004

It is strange watching the details of the campaign for President from so far away. We will go to sleep seven hours ahead of you and wake up and maybe hear results. There is an English language newscast at 6:30 am and the BBC World Service fades in and out on a middle short wave band. We did register for an absentee ballot and received it and returned it weeks ago, so hopefully, it will be counted. We have been involved in several conversations about American politics. It is so interesting to see how people who are not American, view America and all its components and also the global scene. Generally, we don't talk this way in the States.

Today has been the second terrorist incident since we came nearly two months ago. That in itself is most remarkable. There has seldom been a period like this in recent years. Ruby and I have shopped in Mahane Yehudah, and have passed through fairly rigorous screening, though that will probably be heightened. This attack reminds us where we are and that it is still a dangerous place in the world. Nevertheless, I walked home tonight after classes and Ma'ariv services; the supermarkets were bustling; the streets were crowded; the overseas students have returned and are not leaving; more tourist buses are on the streets; and Israel and Israelis will not submit to terrorism.  What is important is that Americans and Jews from other countries are here to be seen, make a positive impact by just walking the streets, besides filling the spaces in ongoing programs, to drop a little or not so little cash into the economy, and to contribute our heart to the soul of this country. Whether you are here or home in Richmond, this is ours. Whether you have ever visited here or not yet, this is ours. Whether you have given to the Welfare Campaign and thus its Israel allocation, this is ours. We must have a wide sweep of Jewish history and existence to be able to locate ourselves, our lives, and Medinat Yisrael. It is more than the words "solidarity" or "unity." There is a "oneness" echoing the echad in the shema that is a visible and invisible thread between Jew and Jew, and each Jew and God, the Torah and this land. It is golden and, even in dark moments, shines forth. This is by no means a dark or gloomy moment here.  The TV has a long program on soccer, not my favorite sport. Life in all its details continues strongly and vibrantly.

Along those lines, Ruby and I have attended three political rallies here in Jerusalem watching the speakers and the attendees at two anti-Gaza pullout rallies and one pro-disengagement rally. I have also been following it in the closes detail in the newspapers and other media. To try to locate the issues for you:

Since the Six Day War in 1967, Israel tried to avoid really grappling

with the issue that really goes back to the early part of the 20th century: there are other people living here besides us, some here a very long time. What about them? Until 1967 it was very clear. They live in Gaza and Jordan. We live in Israel. The word "Palestine" ended with the end of the British Mandate. Historical forces and dynamics, namely the Arab inability and rejection of accepting an autonomous Jewish State in the Middle East, kept the situation festering for the first 19 years of the State. Now, since June, 1967, with control of the West Bank and the Gaza Strip and the very large number of Arabs who were not going to leave nor be forced to leave, what about them and that land? At first there was just an amazement that the neck of Israel was more than 10 miles wide. It was a marvel for the Egyptians to have to worry about Israelis just miles from Cairo and for the Syrians to know that Israel could look into downtown Damascus from the Golan Heights.  Some time after that, and especially after the Yom Kippur War, with an odd and interesting mixture of non-religious nationalism, and non-nationalistic religions, settlements began in earnest again, ignoring the long living Arabs/Palestinians in the areas.

There was a blindness on one side. On another there was a hubris. On another there was a radical religious Messianic expectation. On another side there was the right wing national position that Israel should be according to the Biblical lines. And with Arab terrorism, the rejection of Camp David, etc., it was a natural move for Israel to construct its philosophical, ideological and religious posture. The problem was that it didn't work.  The continuing deaths, the drain on the economy and on the army, the increasing inability to stop terrorism entirely, and geopolitical international isolation and thus the singular friend being the USA, which is not healthy, finally brought Sharon to begin some kind of process to remove Israel's presence from the Gaza Strip and a few communities in the north of the West Bank. This has now become a struggle for the soul and destiny of the nation. Should it be a basically homogeneous Jewish State? What does the word "Jewish" in that phrase mean? As Rabbis who reject political Zionism attempt to dictate the decisions of the political Zionist state of Israel, what is the role of religion, or at least right wing religion?

By the way, that is the entree for another paper about the Conservative Movement in Israel. With all of this, is it naive to think that Moslems, now radicalized, will ever accept this state in peace, or do they/we need to make this fortress Massada? How do we look at the world vis a vis the Jewish state? Are we always to be cynical, as they would love to see us off the face of the earth but are to timid and chicken to say it, but they give the Palestinians support so that it would one day come true, so we do now everything to them from that perspective? Boy is this complicated?! So just try reading the daily paper, which you can do on line at home. This is truly a struggle for the vision of the existence of the State which they cannot ignore, nor bury their heads in the sand, of which we have a lot. Yet there are those who think they can and will force the State to do so.

This is now interwoven in the Israeli political scene which is based on the British Parliamentary structure where parties delegates are elected by blocks and do not represent any localities.  Since no block has a majority, and a vote against it by a majority topples the government, you make coalitions that agree on some things and disagree on others so you do good old fashioned horse trading, without the horses! Even within the political party there are fights for power and dominance and not necessarily the issues. So Sharon loses every vote in his party, which has now nearly repudiated him, and is under attack from Netanyahu, while winning the historic vote to leave Gaza by an interesting coalition.  We watched that vote on television. It was electric. In any event, this gives you a sense that we are here in historic times, without the inkling of what tomorrow brings and how it will come.  Yet we feel completely normal here. I am picking up more of the Hebrew on TV as my ear gets attuned and I learn some new vocabulary. I have given directions to some people who stop and think that I know what I am doing - thank God for maps! And it is normal to see Hebrew on cottage cheese containers and plastic milk bags (they have cartons too). We are studying and walking, and visiting and talking, and storing up the sights, sounds, smells and atmosphere of Jerusalem to keep with us when we come back to you.

 

Well it's late and tomorrow comes quickly, so from Ruby and me, we send our love from Yerushalayim Ir HaKodesh - Jerusalem the holy city, where, if you peek quietly around some corner you expect just maybe that the messiah will be peeking back, and peace will reign, even as the beautiful sunlight by day and moon light by night that reflects off of this golden stones.

After Shabbat, November 20, 2004

 

The week flies by! No sooner than Shabbat is over that it already the next Shabbat! So before that happens again, I am sitting at the keyboard to compose another reflection about our lives here, this time, about the program that we are both attending.

 

When you hear the word "yeshiva" I am sure that the first connection is to the word "orthodox" but that is not necessary. The word "yeshiva" literally means "sitting" and can be used in many contexts.

It came to be associated with intense Jewish study because you really "sit yourself down to do some serious studying." While the phrase "life-long learning" for adults is now in vogue, in truth, the reality of Judaism always (I would like to capitalize, underscore and italicize the word "always" but won't do that with this computer so just read it as if  I did) maintained that the essence of Jewish identity is to study throughout our life times. It means to study the core Jewish texts of the Bible and Rabbinic, i.e.., Talmud and Midrash and Halachic texts throughout our lifetimes. Unfortunately in

our movement this was not stressed and was relegated to "adult education programs" which, no matter how valuable and even trendy, are no replacement for real, committed Jewish study. The very activity defines us, and especially defines us as seriously committed and recognizable Jews. That is why the Talmud class and the Adult Bar/Bat Mitzvah program where we study the texts are so centrally important to me.

About a dozen years ago, several leaders of the United Synagogue of Conservative Judaism decided that we need such a study program centered here in Jerusalem. It was not a program to require tests and papers to give grades. It was to be designed to study for study's sake, in our language, Torah L'Shema. With the growing physical center of the movement here in Jerusalem, space was allocated, funding initiated, and recruitment began. Who comes? Mostly those who have finished college B.A. and before they go on to other studies.

Some are here just to learn Jewish texts. Some are here to find a deeper meaning in Judaism. Some are here to find a studying community. Some are here like Ruby and me, to find a short term meaningful place to study, pray and meet like-minded Jews. How do we study? It is called hevruta, namely, in pairs. It is like team-learning instead of team teaching. For my Talmud, Midrash and Bible classes I have three different partners. My philosophy course didn't use that approach until recently and now I have a fourth partner. Ruby is studying Talmud, Halacha - Jewish law, Ulpan Hebrew, and a seminar on Women in Jewish Law and studies in the same way with chevruta partners. We sit opposite each other and study together. We read, discuss, differ, reassess, master the material, or together are puzzled. The room we study in is the Bet Midrash - the House of Study, study hall. All through the room are the voices of hevrutas working together, sometimes two at a table. And despite the volume, we focus each on our own material. It is an amazing environment that is electric and energizing. Every so often someone gets up to stretch, another for a cup of coffee, another to consult a teacher who is often in the hall, or if not, another teacher.

There is much less formality but much more endearment. I can go to Reb Shmuel or Reb Mordechai or to Vered or Shaya, and my Talmud hevruta is Reb Shlomo, also an ordained Conservative Rabbi who was the Rabbi in the synagogue in Gilo, Jerusalem and who I brought to speak in our shul.

One chevruta partner is the son of a Rabbi who I went to school with! My Bible partner has given up his work at IMF (international money fund) to begin the path to the Rabbinate and this is his first step! And since we are all voluntarily there, we are self motivated and self accountable. And there are also a few students who are older than me! There are many levels for courses and some are taught in English and there is an ulpan program for beginners in Hebrew. During the week the Rosh Yeshiva, Reb Shmuel, also known as Rabbi Richard Lewis, presents a thought provoking talk/lecture that is really probing, insightful and utmost stimulating. There are other speakers as well. We daven Shacharit, Mincha after lunch, and Ma'ariv for those who have a class ending at 6:15 P.M. Ruby and I have that two times a week. Our Conservative Yeshiva has other ancillary programs as well.

This Shabbat the Conservative Yeshiva spent shabbat together, davening, studying, eating and socializing. We concluded Shabbat at one of the teacher's home which is around the corner from us. First we had Seudah Shlishit, the third Shabbat meal, then we sang, and then ended Shabbat with Havdalah. This group of young men and women are phenomenal. Some of them are spending their second or even third year at the Yeshiva. I can readily understand why. The experience is addictive in the most positive sense. I would also single out the administration who makes the program work so smoothly, with humor and grace and dedication, and then even higher praise upon our teachers who are most dedicated, selfless, personal, exemplary, interactive, motivating exemplars of Torah students and teachers that I have ever meant, nor could have dreamt of. While I knew the Conservative Yeshiva existed and had been in contact before we came, I could not have imagined that Ruby and I would have found such a captivating "home" for us both to study at. We have specifically stayed in the background, as we are significantly older than most of the students.

Yet when we were away with Richmond Federation mission for three days the week before, one of the students came up and said that when others were absent they were not necessarily noticed, but when we were absent, we were missed. I gave him a hug and a kiss, for that was so sweet.

This Shabbat really began on Friday morning when I joined a delegation of the Conservative Yeshiva in participating in the World Wide Walk which did five! miles in Jerusalem, having either gotten pledges or pledged ourselves, to raise money for the Pediatric Department of the New Center for Emergency Medicine at Hadassah Medical Organization here in Jerusalem. I donated from the money given to me for tzedakah, and am proud to say that I finished the walk! It had some reals up hills, as Jerusalem is hilly, but it was a thrill.

The last thing I would like to write is to most highly encourage our youth to participate in Nativ and the Conservative Yeshiva. Our Menachem went on Nativ and had a most rewarding experience. Nativ is a program from the United Synagogue for Conservative Judaism. It is for high school graduates before they go to college. They apply to college, get a deferred acceptance, and then come to Israel. They study at the Yeshiva and can possibly get college credit. Then they spent time on a kibbutz and get a deeper understanding of Israel society. There are many components to the Nativ experience. And while they start college one year later, they can an invaluable experience which gives greater maturity, and maybe even encourages refocus and reconsideration of their plans. It certainly reinforces and materially substantiates their Jewish content. I also highly encourage those graduating college to take the time to immerse in significant, substantial and stimulating Jewish study here in the Holy City of Jerusalem and gain a high perspective of being a Jew, of Jewish history, existence and destiny. Why rush off to work and miss life? Rush to life, especially a Jewish one. Work will be there.

Lastly, those seeking a pause in life, regardless of age, and can come here for some time, whatever that might mean, OUR Conservative Yeshiva is just the place, in fact the ONLY place that you should think off.

The hardest part for Ruby and me will to be to leave this place, our friends, our chevruta partners, and our teachers. It is an incredible learning community. We are blessed to have this in our lives.

Otherwise, it has finally gotten colder with more rain, yippee for Israel, the Sea of Galilee rose a little, and we had a great visit with the JCFR visit. It was wonderful to see a few familiar faces and spent time with them and Emek Hefer. That is a subject for another letter.

Meanwhile, Hello from Jerusalem, the city from whom holiness and Hebrew emanates even in the most mundane settings. The Talmud says that God gave ten parts of beauty to the world, nine of them to Jerusalem. You just walk the streets, look up and around, open the ears and hear our language mingled with other languages, and know that there is no other place like this.